by:
Audrey!
Everybody knows brands. Patagonia is “good”, h&m is a perpetrator of greenwashing, and of course, Zara and Nike are fast fashion, (but Everlane isn’t?). With so much information at our fingertips, to buy is to accept a brand and its values.
Purveyors of subcultures can easily spot each other based on the value system of their worldly possessions. A SHEIN shopper likely won’t strike up a conversation with a Balenciaga aficionado, and a sporty “Nike” rep would be seldom pressed to approach somebody sporting a completely thrifted wardrobe.*
*This isn’t to say that game doesn’t recognize game. With globalization attributed to consumerism and the sharing of ideas on social media, many people recognize and accept styles that they wouldn’t necessarily wear.
Modern fashions reflect values and cultural phenomenon outward onto users. FW/2022, for example, was an amalgamation of thrifted fashion, gorpcore, and utilitarianism. Fall saw hiking shoes; Salomon’s, Merrells, and Keens, and winter saw the polarizing UGG boot make a return. At the heart of this, fashionistas embraced the “fugly” look of utilitarianism. Comfort was valued over style, which quickly aided the “surprising” shoe trend’s upbringing.
Brands quickly took note of this outdoor-fashion-turned couture, and began to cash in on the trend. Salomon Sportstyle dominated the runways with collabs with huge heritage names and luxury brands such as Maison Margiela and Sandy Liang. Asics catapulted back into the mainstream after Bella Hadid (queen of GORP and fugliness) wore the Gel-1130 Kayano’s to Paris Fashion Week. As a result, asics began popping up all over Pinterest boards, and her vintage ACG zip-off skirt began selling on Depop and eBay for hundreds of dollars. Ever eager to participate in trends, shoppers bought up thrifted fleeces, convertible pants, sporty sneakers, and hiking boots.
Unfortunately, simply wearing a trend without understanding how it came to be can easily cheapen an outfit. Trends trickle down though various fashion companies and become ready-to-wear pieces, devoid of emotion or meaning. Underscoring this, brands such as Urban Outfitters will take up arms producing cargo skirts and cargo pants for the everyday consumer, who are then able to buy the trends without recognition of any subcultures or history.qq
This is the same phenomenon that led people in FW/22 to buy $400 Arc’teryx shells and show them off online, only to be bombarded with comments like “Oh, you like Arc’teryx? Name every mountain.” Drawing parallel, consumers in the early 2010’s were called “posers” for wearing Vans but not skateboarding. Comments like this, while hilarious, help us understand the disconnect between consumers, trends, and brands.
At the turn of a brand from keeping in touch with their core values, to lifestyle, trends for the everyday person emerge. As people become more and more educated on what their clothing choices say about them, they may critically evaluate fashion trends and focus on curating a style that reflects their personal values, beliefs, and desired image. Education surrounding the cultural significance of clothing fosters a deeper understanding of cultural and social nuances. This may lead to increased sensitivity and respect for diverse cultural expressions and traditions, fostering a more inclusive and respectful approach to fashion.